6.06.2008

There's a Thief in the Village

another post dated story. i'll get more information about mid-service training soon.

I was in Idrissa’s office when it started. I was there inviting him as my counterpart to Mid-Service Training. Walking back to the front of the office, where the benches are and most people spend most of their time, I hear the sounds of unfamiliar voices. To be more precise, I hear voices that are unfamiliar for the location.

I round the corner and see a mass of people standing underneath the large tree out front. I can only pick out random words and can make no sense of what I do understand. I can read the faces and body language of the group only enough to know that something is wrong.

Deciding that I didn’t want to stand around any longer not knowing what is truly going on I return to the shaded benches in the entrance way of the office. It’s too hot to stand around anyway. I watch for a while longer. More people show up. School is out for the year and more and more school-aged kids appear, making up the majority of the crowd.

Only a few, besides those originally posted under the tree, wear concerned looks. One of the concerned is a shop owner on the main road through the village. The other volunteers in the area and I do most of our non market day bush shopping at his shop. Lachlan keeps the shop’s tea inventory dangerously close to non-existent and we all buy a little something to try and break our larger bills. He hates departing with his coins but likes his repeat customers.

The crowd begins shifting and spreading out, though no one is leaving. I ask one of my coworkers what is going on. He tells me in Hausa that there was a thief. Then, another tells me in French as if the other man hadn’t spoken. After that a third says in awkward English, “We have chief”. So I replied to all three, “Oh, thief, voleur, barawo”. I couldn’t believe it. I’d always thought that I could leave my house unlocked. I lock it, but I always felt that it wasn’t necessary.

The shop owner is chatting with the office guard. The guard’s job is more guardian in the traditional Hausa role than a security officer. He makes the tea every day, sweeps the conference room, and is always around to run an errand for someone else. Now his task is to call the mayor. No answer.

The crowd shifts about and I catch my first glimpse of the young thief, a boy on the front side of his teen years. His head down, heavy with the great responsibility of carrying this shame, and his arms tied behind his back. The crowd stares and ignores him. Staring ensures that he feels his shame and ignoring him leaves him thinking that they thought he would always be a thief.

“Le numéro est indisponible” or whatever the recording says when someone’s phone is off or without service. Someone else tried to reach Mr. le Maire again this time using speaker phone.

The shop owner is visibly irritated that he can’t go about his day because no one is there to decide what to do with the boy. I guess it is hard enough not to take matters into your own hands when you find someone breaking into your home. Some one else attempts a phone call.

Headed east into town the shop owner, with thief by his side, walk. The crowd parades behind them. I ask a few questions to those who remained in the shade. Apparently I’m not asking the right questions. “That way” pointing east was not the answer I was looking for when I asked where they were taking him.

That’s ok because moments later they return to the large bedi tree in front of the office. Now, the boy is leaning his shoulder hard into the tree, staring at his feet as if they contain the last bit of dignity left in his body and if he looks away, even for a moment, he will lose that. He’s afraid. He’s trying to hide it, but I doubt that there is a single person here who can’t see through it.

With their toy cars made of millet stalk, old tomato paste cans, and old bits of flip-flops the younger boys continue to filter in. Some one else shows their effort by the use of speaker phone.

The shop owner has come to sit with us in the shade on the benches in the entrance to the office. A few young girls have shown up to try and sell food. As best as I can tell we are all waiting on the mayor. Another unsuccessful speaker phone attempt.

Another twenty minutes pass and the crowd has thinned out except for the shop owner, thief, office workers, a handful of children and myself. The boy, still leaning against the tree looked up and we made contact. It was only for a moment, but I’m certain I saw his last shred of dignity blow away in the hot breeze.

An hour passes and although I noticed no comings or goings, the crowd is back thrice as strong. Everyone is mocking the boy by ignoring him or making light chatter about the situation. How embarrassing? Now I’m beginning to feel uncomfortable about all this. I wish the mayor would show up so that we can get some resolution to all of this.

It all seemed fun like a vigilante act at first. Tie ‘em up, then call the sheriff. Parading a thief up and down the street seems as good a socializing act as any. If you don’t want to be paraded up and down the street, don’t steal. That rule sounds easy enough to follow. But, that didn’t make it any easier to watch.

Rainy season usually marks the beginning of the hunger season. Outside of the rising global food costs, hunger season is an annual occurrence here as the last year’s millet supplies dwindle making it difficult for people to find food. Many of my villagers have stopped eating three meals a day and have even stopped eating twice a day resorting to one daily meal. I’ve heard in other villages that people are eating only once every 2-3 days. This one meal is usually just a millet dish with some kind of sauce and doesn’t exactly cover the bases on the food pyramid.

I don’t know what this young boy was accused of taking, but regardless of what it was it is hard to justify theft in a society where everyone is being pressed by hunger season. It’s equally hard to get upset when someone steals food because they are starving.

It’s also hard to argue with the community’s decision to allow the boy to be tied up and paraded around town. Why would you risk all of that humiliation and shame, unless you really needed something?

6.04.2008

Tsalla Girl

wrote this, but didn't get it posted. i'm post dating it for the day it was written. enjoy.

I’ve never asked her name. Often, she is the first person I see in the morning. If I forget to lock my concession door at night, she may be the first thing I open my eyes to. Here she is every morning, shortly after the sun. And, I’ve never asked her name.

It didn’t matter that I was gone for two weeks. She said that she came by every day to see if I had come back early. I must admit, it was a sight I missed. A breakfast ritual missed.

A young girl, no more than 10 and probably closer to 8, she is balancing a tub large enough for laundry on her head and carrying a smaller bucket in her right hand. The bowl contains a mountain of tsalla and the bucket contains red sauce. Every morning she shows up at my door.

Besides being down-right tasty, tsalla—fried millet balls that must be kin to hushpuppies—and the sauce—tomato based with a kick of onions, peppers, garlic and ginger—have become an early morning tradition of mine. If nothing else, it provides another excuse to get out of bed in the morning.

While I was away I craved the village food, despite being surrounded by the food distractions and conveniences the city provides. Maybe I should be getting tired of the same thing every morning, but I guess I’ve always been a creature of habit.

This morning I purchase 100 CFA worth, my usual. She asks about my trip and listens wide-eyed as I groggily recount the details—about the big city, the rain, and how tall the millet already is in some places along Route Nationale 1.

She excuses herself to go sell the rest of this morning’s batch, hurrying so she doesn’t miss the first few minutes of school. I asked her to come back tomorrow as I put water on for tea that will round out my breakfast.

Well, it is almost 7:00 am now and I’ve been away for a while. Lots of chores to take care of and there’s no better time to get started than before the heat sets in.

Tomorrow, I’ll ask her name.

5.31.2008

Exhausted!

I think I'll start this post by saying that Jeremy's pictures are much better than mine. Not just a little bit better, but a LOT better. So, before you read any further check these (and these) out. I won't have enought time to upload my pics now anyway, but have patience and I'll get them up next time I'm in Niamey.

It's been a really great trip into Niamey, but I'm ready to get back out to the bush. It's expensive being in the city. I'm not looking forward to getting on the bus tomorrow but I am excited about being back in my village. After all, I have a meeting in Niamey on the 13th and Mid-Service training the 16th -18th at Hamdallaye. Mid-Service training!!!! I'm nearly half way done? Ok, it's not quite half way yet, but it is very close.

Pangea was absolutely amazing! It was so great to see all of my friends and it was great to connect with Nigeriens in such a constructive way. I made contact with many new musicians and look forward to practicing what they taught me. I never got a chance to teach my second class on Cash, Dylan, and Redding, but maybe I'll get the chance to hang out with some of my new friends and do impromptu classes. One guy said that I could come stay with him any time I'm in Niamey and we'll talk about music and drink tea all night.

All of the classes went really well this week. The volunteers that led the dance classes worked really hard and the routines turned out really well. Thursday's theater and radio classes also went really well. These classes had the most amount of collaboration between volunteers and their Nigerien counterparts and that was very inspiring to see everyone come together. Most other classes were led either by Peace Corps volunteers or Nigeriens.
During the hip hop conference (led by Nigeriens) Koy, a Nigerien rapper, was talking about the origins of hip hop culture in America and mentioned the artist Afrika Bambaataa. Some of the volunteers asked if he was Zarma, one of the ethnic groups in Niger, because bambata in Zarma means big. He actually took the name from the Zulu chief Bhambatha. Although I think "Big Africa" is a pretty cool name.

There is no way to describe everything that happened this week, or to truly express how I feel about it. I hope that it continues next year and that each year it gets bigger and better. Like I mentioned in my last post, there was a videographer every day and at least one photographer. As the fruits of their labors are collected and combiled I will be linking to them. The video that was put together last year was really good and I think that this years video will be well worth the weight, so be patient (but don't forget I'm on Nigerien time).

I hope you are all doing well and thanks for reading. I look forward to posting again when I get a chance.

5.27.2008

Pangea


First of all, Pangea is going great, I'm having a blast. Monday morning I taught a class on American folk traditions in music. The class was scheduled to be an hour and about half way through a television crew showed up (you can see in the picture above). So, I did the second half of the class with a camera shoved in my face.

The class was directed at the Nigeriens present (mostly musicians) and it went really well. Everyone there seemed to enjoy it. It was just a surface skimming presentation on origins of popular American musical traditions. It was incredibly difficult to narrow down such a broad topic, but it was alot of fun to put together.

My favorite question that was asked during the presentation was, "Can you tell us everything about Johnny Cash?" At this point, I had about 5 minutes left in the class. We decided that I would do a follow up class highlighting a few artists. With input from the class we decided on Bob Dylan, Johnny Cash, and Otis Redding. Basically, I'm just going to put together short bios of the artists and play lots of video and music clips. I think that there is an opening tomorrow that I am going to fill with my second class.

After my class was a demonstration of the biram by Malam Barka. You can read more about Malam Barka here. I don't think I can describe this instrument with words and be believed, so I'll just wait until I have some pictures. You can purchase Malam Barka's CD from Amazon here.

Yesterday, I was supposed to help out with a guitar basics class, but no one really showed up for that. I spent that time learning some West African guitar styles. It was really great.

During lunch, there were groups of people pocketed all over the Centre de Formation et de Promotion Musicale (CFPM) playing and jamming in various styles. It was beautiful and was where I realized that I was going to have a lot to learn and nothing to teach in any instrumental class.

Well, I'm going to get back to preparing for my next class. I'll leave you with a general overview of the week.

Monday/26: American & Nigerien Traditional Music

Tuesday/27: Jazz, Blues, Funk, Soul

Wednesday/28: Hip-Hop, Reggae, Rap

Thursday/29: Theatre and Expressive Arts

Friday/30: Ceremony and Performances

Every Night: Concerts

Every day has a videographer and several photographers, so I'll be linking to all available video/pictures as they become available. Also, I'm taking pictures in my free time and will post them soon.

Thanks for the picture Jeremy.

5.22.2008

Back in Niamey

I'm back in Niamey and I'm getting ready for Pangea, more information on that coming later. Just know I'm very excited about it. The guys in the picture are from a soccer game we recently had in my village not from the upcoming Pangea.

Before I discuss Pangea any further I'd like to talk about what I've been working on in the village.

On, April 29th (Yeah, I know it's almost June) I held a meeting where I walked the guys in the office through how to assess a problem and write a proposal for a project. We recently had a well collapse in another village in the commune and one day the secretary general asked me what I was going to do about the problem. So, I told him that I would teach him how to fix the problem. They started working on the information that afternoon and I just got hold of some proposal applications that can be submitted in French. So, when I return to the village we will complete the proposals. When I say 'we', I hope that I mean 'they'.

The next day, we were supposed to have a meeting to establish a calendar for the office. I sketched out some designs and created a few keys so that we can color code different things such as meetings, travel, projects, market, etc. No one showed up. Who would have a thought you needed a calendar to plan a meeting for establishing a calendar. I tried again a few times to have the meeting, but there just weren't enough people interested/around. I left them the task of creating a list of dates of activities within the commune during the next three months and when I return we will put the calendar together. In sha Allah.

On Friday, May 2nd Sarah took two girls from my village to Maradi for a Young Women's Fair that the volunteers in our region put on. I didn't go, because we had some soccer games in my village, including the first game ever by the girls team at the CEG. The boys played on Saturday evening in front of about 600 people. We beat Kanambakache 2-0. After the match the students performed songs they had written. One song was about the importance of girls education and the other about how to treat the visitors. Sunday morning the girls played and we lost 1-0. It was a great weekend.

The following Friday, we were supposed to do a project celebrating Global Youth Service Day (2 weeks late of course). That got postponed to the following week and then postponed again. The rains have started, so school will get out soon. I don't think we will get around to doing this project this year.

May 13th was Nigerien Women's Day and I went the following day to Tibiri to help with a school there. We made paper flowers for all the mothers.

Well, that's the low down on what's been going on here. I'll post about Pangea soon.

Thanks for reading.

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Best thing about hot season: mangoes

Worst thing about hot season: well, it's hot